Formulation of Anti-Blackhead Rubber Mask from Purified Gambier (Uncaria gambir [Hunter] Roxb.)

Abstract

The purified was isolated from Uncaria gambir [Hunter] Roxb. that contains more than 90% of catechins. Its antioksidant and antibacterial properties have potential to formulate as cosmetics. Dry form formulation of cosmetic was one approach to minimize cathecins degradation in a product. In this study, three formulation of rubber mask containing 5% of purified gambier was done. Each formulation was formulated with calcium sulfate, propylene glycol, magnesium carbonate, citrus essential oil and variation of HPMC and chitosan as film former. The three formulas had a brown color, smooth textures, the gambier odor, visually homogeneous, particle sizes at 112.24 – 116.39 µm, moisture values at 3.9 – 7.04%, pH of 6, drying times of 8 to 15 minutes, adhesive power of > 10 seconds and remained stable for 21 days at 4±2°C and 27±2°C. The actual catechin content in formula I, II, and III were 0.89%, 1.09%, and 1.39%, respectively. The best formula was formula III, which contained 40% HPMC and 10% chitosan due to the fastest drying time of 8.36 minutes ± 19 seconds and the highest catechins content at 1.39%.