Penggunaan Kulit Tumbuhan Kareumbi (Homalanthus populneus) Sebagai Zat Warna Alam dengan Variasi Mordan

Abstract

Penggunaan Kulit Tumbuhan Kareumbi (Homalanthus populneus) Sebagai Zat Warna Alam dengan Variasi Mordan Nadhifah Rahmawati, dan Sri Endah Wahyuningsih Program Studi Pendidikan Tata Busana, Fakultas Teknik, Universitas Negeri Semarang, Gedung E10 Lt 2 Kampus Sekaran, Gunungpati, Semarang 50229 nadhifahdipol@gmail.com, s.endah32@mail.unnes.ac.id Abstract. Many natural dyes are produced from parts of plant such as leaves, fruit, flowers, seeds, roots and bark. The bark of kareumbi plant (Homalanthus populneus) can be used as a natural dye in primissima unbleached plain cloth. This research was conducted to determine the quality of the dyeing result including color darkness, color fastness and color differences in the dyeing of primissima unbleached plain cloth. This research is an experimental research. Before dyeing, pre mordanting was applied to the cloth using alum, quicklime and tunjung with a concentration of 50gr /l. The coloring was done by soaking the primissima unbleached plain cloth in the kareumbi (Homalanthus populneus) bark extraction for 30 minutes, then drying it under the sun. The dyeing process was then repeated for 10 times. The highest result of the color darkness test was found on mordant tunjung treatment with a reflectance score (R%) of 4.71, and the lowest score was found on quicklime mordant with a reflectance score (R%) of 54.76. The result of the color fastness test on washing using mordant alum and tunjung resulted in a score of 4 wich belongs to "good" category, whereas the test on quicklime mordant resulted in a score of 3-4 which belongs to "quite good " category. In addition, the result of color fastness test against cloth staining showed that the application of quicklime and tunjung mordant resulted in a score of 4-5 which was "good" and the application of mordant alum generated a score of 5 which was "very good". Meanwhile, based on the color direction test, it can be seen that the application of mordant alum and quicklime leads to yellow and the dyeing using mordant tunjung leads to black. Keywords: natural dye, kareumbi plant (Homalanthus populneus), color quality.